Crinan Canal to Tarbet - Day 30

Crinan Canal to East Loch Tarbet - Wednesday 1st June 2011 - Day 30

Set off from Cairnbann at 11.00 down the canal and passed Lochgilp head at 11.30 through two bridges and No.4 lock which were operated by the canal staff. Without our young helpers of yesterday, it was Craig who had to come to terms with the operation of No.3 and No.2 locks while I stayed on the boat for the driving bit.  Craig looks a fit chap but the running between locks and the winding of the sluice gates proved he was not in tip-top condition, he recovered while in the pontoon basin waiting for the Ardrishaig road swing bridge to open for the sea lock.
At 13.30 we passed the pier head and were back at sea in Loch Fyne and began sailing with the engine off.
At 14.30 Clyde Coastguard gave out a Mayday relay which was an upgrade from the Pan Pan message in the morning, concerning a missing boat from Craob Haven with two persons on board but we never heard of the outcome.

Tarbet

It was a pleasant run down to Tarbet under an overcast sky.  Craig was given the task of guiding the boat in and putting her on the pontoon, for his first time, he done a grand job.
Ashore to the Victoria for a meal of cullen skinin (fish broth), mussels, haddock, scampi, a proper scottish fish supper.  The Anchor has been refurbished and its upmarket decor was not for us, so we went next door to finish off the day.

Oban to Crinan Canal - Day 29

Oban to Crinan Canal - Tuesday 31st May 2011 - Day 29

Call at 05.00 for a 06.00 start on leaving the marina to catch the favourable tide down Kerrera Sound.
By 07.00 passed the Sgeirean Dubha Lighthouse then Insh Island.

  For once the weather was fair with little wind and warmth as we passed the Bono Rock red lateral mark and the impossing Fladda Lighthouse as we entered the Sound of Luing.  The photo shows the Gulf of Corryvreckan one of the most feared stretches of water for yachtsmen in Scotland.  It runs between the islands of Scarba and Jura but today it looked very peaceful and we were happy.

Passed the narrows of the islands of Coirsea and Reisa an-t-struth before entering another race of the Dorus Moir between the island of Garba Reisa and Craignish Point on the mainland.

It was here we met VIC32 (Victualling Inshore Craft), the only working steam Clyde Puffer and an impressive sight.  We stood off the Crinan Canal sea lock at 11.00 until advised to enter with another yacht 'Stormer' skippered by Mike.  It was a lady lock -keeper this time in charge as we done the administration bit and received our license and key to transit the canal.  Mike had requested the assistance of two youngesters to operate the lock gates, so it was a pleasure following him through the canal.  A very impressive section is the view beside the River Add over the a flat plain out to the surrounding mountains.  The tree-lined banks of the canal are very pretty and seeing them in the sunshine made a big difference.

We passed through 5 bridges and 11 locks until we came to the mid-way point in the canal at Cairnbann after passing through No.5 lock we moored on the lay-by pontoon with a power supply at 15.00.  In the evening we walked across the canal to the Cairnbann Hotel where we had a very good meal and drinks in a very friendly atmosphere.                                                    

Oban - Days 24,25,26,27,28

Oban - Thursday 26th May - Day 24

Told to move the boat and in very gusty conditions which caused some damage and lay alongside with the prevailing wind on the bows and not blowing into the cockpit/cabin.
In the afternoon went in the hourly marina launch which takes 10 minutes to the town.  I went off to the Tartan Tavern and Lizz to the shops.
We met up in Aulay's Bar where I had previously been on my past visits to Oban, this is full of old photographs of ferries and fishing boats and has real character.  We were directed by the barman to the Waterfront Restaurant, unfortunately it turned out to be the poorest visited so far, firstly being cold, unappetising meal and expensive.  Went back along the front to the Cuan Mor, a friendly place and warm for night caps before returning on the 22.10 boat to the marina.

Oban - Friday 27th May 2011 -Day 25

This is Lizz's leaving day, we went to the station for her 12.45 train to Glasgow, then coach journey to airport for her onward flight to Southampton.
Saying goodbye at the station was difficult, as it was her determination to make me carry on, when I was all for giving it all up and going home from Lossiemouth.  Before coming on the trip, I had told her of the wonderful scenery within Scotland and not to worry too much about the weather.  The scenery does not change but the conditions she had to endure in seeing it all, at times it was horrendous.  I cannot thank her enough, for the smiles and laughter and once through the canal, I knew I had to carry on and her determination has rubbed off on me in wanting to complete the project.

The chandlery in Oban is well stocked and bought quite a few items before retiring to Aulay's Bar.
There is always a lot of visitors to the town and seeing them trying to find something to do and where to take the kids in the continous rain and drizzle, no wonder there are not many smiley faces, when the weather is dreek.

Oban - Saturday 28th May 2011 - Day 26

Spent the day in the marina doing the laundry, sorting out the cabins and after throwing out a lot of foodstuffs, decided this boat can operate with less grub on board.  It never stopped raining with too many heavy showers, this is awful.
Went ashore on the 18.00 boat for a walk around Tesco's and tried another pub Lorne Bar which has very good Belhaven's Best.  Into Aulay's bar for the big football match and sat next to a man in full Man. Utd. strip and cap (brave).  First time I have watched a game in the 3D format and I was very impressed and a good match, though the man dressed red left early after Barcelona scored their third goal.

Oban - Sunday 29th May 2011 - Day 27

It is still raining with a little more wind to push it along.
Sunday lunch in the Cuan Mor which was very nice and back on board by 15.15.
Siesta, then spent the evening getting more and more frustrasted trying to get to grips with this netbook and setting up this blog site, microsoft office and emails.

Oban - Monday 30th May 2011 - Day 28

The morning is dry after overnight rain, though the showers started when I was wanting to get to grips with some work on the deck.
Ashore on the 14.00 boat, shopping again in Chandler's, Tesco's.
Into the railway station to meet Craig Whitehouse, a Blyth yacht club member, arriving on the 15.30 train.  Very happy to have crew once again, so into Aulay's Bar and onto Cuan Mor for a meal.
Back on board for 18.30 and got Craig settled in  

Fort William to Oban - Day 23

Fort William to Oban - Wednesday 25th May 2011 - Day 23

This is a very unusual start to the day, there is no wind.

Lizz at the helm as we make our way to the locks with Ben Nevis in the background.  We entered the first lock at 08.45 and began the descent of the flight of 8 locks at 'Neptunes Staircase'.  With us in the locks was one other yacht from France who was returning from the Arctic and on his way back to the Mediterrean.  With no wind the famous Scottish midges arrived along with the swallows who were feeding off the midges as they skimmed across the lock surface.  By 10.00 we were at the bottom of the locks and awaiting the opening of the road and railway swing bridges.  Once through it was only a short distance to the Corpach sea lock and entered the second lock at 10.30.  Here you complete the paperwork for the canal transit and hand back the key.

With the backdrop of Ben Nevis with its snow on the top we left the canal at 11.00 past Fort William and into Loch Linnie.  We motored down the loch and passed through the overfalls at the narrows of the Corran Point lighthouse.  The wind was now beginning to show its hand and we started real sailing at 13.45 for the first time, though the engine was still running in neutral. By 15.15 the genoa had to be taken back in as the wind began increasing while we were south of Shuna Island.  Passed inside Lismore Island and the mainland which then opened out for the crossing of the Lynn of Lorn.  Now this is what we were used to, the wind and waves increased with buckets of rain as we tried to make headway south.  By 18.00 we were off the entrance to Oban harbour and made our way to the marina in Ardantrive Bay on the Isle of Kerrera opposite the town of Oban.  We went ashore for a warm welcoming meal and drink only to find the facilities were in a open air small marquee with open sides.  I could not believe who thought this would work in Scotland.  We had our meal and drink under a great big gas heater which did not help finishing off a day inwhich we started in no wind conditions and ended in a near gale.                                                                                  

                                                                                                                                                          

Laggan to Banavie Locks - Day 22

Laggan Locks to Banavie Locks - Tuesday 24th May 2011 - Day 22

Awoke to find the decks covered in volcanic ash is this turning into a biblical story.
The lock keeper gave the all clear and with a few hired motor cruisers made our way into the lock only to find when the water level was dropping one of the cruiser became hung up on her rubbing strake against the lock wall and began lising at a very embarrasing angle.  They were still hanging tightly onto the mooring lines with everyone telling them to let go as she fell back into the lock.  We went over and gave a short lesson in taking fenders out of their stowage cradles and using them (amateurs, bless them).

By 09.45 we were out of the lock and making our way down Loch Lochy in strong south westerly winds, gusting force8, of course, coming from the direction we were hoping to go.  The lots of rain accompaning the wind soon washed off the present of ash from Iceland.  After a couple of hours slog we arrived at Gairlochy lock, as mentioned, very few lock keepers are Scottish and this one is Spanish.  It was amazing being in this part of the world practicing my Spanish and receiving a response in that language.

After the lock you pass through the Moy swing bridge and a long passage follows in the canal alongside the tow path where many walkers were resuming their journeys and by 14.00 we were at the
top of the Banavie locks.  We were found a berth with power and water at hand and gratefully tied up.

We ventured ashore to look at the lock system of Neptune Staircase and at the bottom went into the Moorings Hotel for expensive drinks and sandwiches.  Discussions with the lock keepers and checking the weather it was decided to leave the next day and booked in for the first morning lock.

In the evening went to the station at the bottom of the locks to catch the train to Fort William, while on the platform began chatting with a young man who told us about the backdrop of Ben Nevis and the names of the peaks close by and being a young'un he had climbed them all.  The train is only one stop to Fort William with the station next to the supermarket where we did some shopping and had a walk round the town and ending up at the Ben Nevis pub. The seat in the restaurant gave us a fine view over the harbour, loch and surrounding hillsides.  The steak and lamb shank meals were excellent and the taxi ride back to the boat brought a fine close to the day.

The Storm - Day 21

Laggan Locks - Monday 23rd May 2011 - Day 21

Awoke at 06.00 by the yacht ranging against the river pontoon. With the long mooring ropes made extra springs and breast lines after pulling the bows hard against the pontoon and every fender on the port side.  The weather was very, very wet with lots and lots of wind.
By 10.00 the advise from the lock keeper was not to leave though he had let boats through at 08.00.  The message from the next lock down at Gairlochy was very bad and shortly afterwards all the canal locks stopped operating.
The noon weather forcast for sea area Malin was West to South West winds 7 to 9 increasing to violent storm 11, it is not very often you hear that one and not forgetting we were 30 miles from the sea. The walkers some of whom we had met along the canal doing the Great Glen walk were advised to stay in doors as the winds were bringing trees down.
By 13.00 Lizz went off to the Eagle barge while I stayed on board on watch, later ashore the power cables came down so no electric and the canal locks were completely shut down.  Lizz kept coming back now and again to see if all was satisfactory and in the evening the situation started to calm.
At 19.00 I went along to the barge which was in darkness operating by candle and torch light, I returned to the yacht and brought all of our available torches.
The Eagle barge is run by a lovely couple Paul and Janet, they carried on as best possible in very strange circumstances and I was amazed how they managed to serve drinks and cook meals to all who were taking shelter, they really appreciated their efforts.
At 21.00 the power came back on and we had our meals consisting of steak and ale, steak and stilton pies they were gorgeous.  One of the local walkers who was very reluctant to leave introduced me to Aberdue whiskey, so I was very happy when we left and if you are storm bound in the Caledonian Canal, it is advisable to be as near as possible to the Eagle Barge at Laggan Locks.

Caledonian Canal - Days 18,19,20

Caledonian Canal - Friday 20th May 2011 - Day 18

After calling the sea lock, the keeper advised the time for leaving the marina and we cast off at 11.45 and made our way into the river.  In time for the big black menacing cloud coming over the mountain, not only having to contend with the overfalls/rapids in the river above Kessock Bridge, the wind and rain slammed into the boat as we turned and made the approach into the lock.  We surfed inside and the lock-keeper said "well done" as we throw him our ropes, "thank god" said I in reply.
Clachnaharry sea lock is where you pay your money and receive your license and key to transit the canal and use the shore-side facilities.  Looking to the North we could see snow on top of the mountain, "that's fresh snow" said the lock-keeper, "lets hope the boat heater keeps going" said I.
We left the lock at 12.45 through a road bridge, another lock and into Seaport marina where we topped up with fuel and provisions.
14.00 awaited the opening of the Muirtown traffic bridge then into a staircase of 4 locks, of course, all of these are operated by British waterways staff, while you stay on your boat and handle the ropes.
15.00 alongside Caley marina and used the chandlery to buy numerous items most important being a new whistling kettle.
16.00 left the marina and through the Tomnahurich swing bridge at 16.20 and by 17.00 in Douchgarroch Lock.  After leaving the lock tied up for the night at the nearest lay-by pontoon.
With a pie and beans dinner on board, followed by gin and tonics, no ice, no lemon.

Loch Ness - Saturday 21st May - Day 19

10.00 left Dochgarroch and entered Loch Ness the wind as usual was blowing from the direction we wanted to go, on the nose force 4 to 5 which made loch surface very choppy with heavy rain showers and it was cold.  We had two reefs in the main and were tacking to maintain speed with the engine running and half way down the loch is a the little harbour of Drumnadrochit where Lizz maneouvered the boat alongside.
We attempted to walk to the attraction of Urquhart Castle but gave up and went by taxi, spent and hour and a half there doing a photo-shoot and the same taxi came back to the harbour.

We left at 15.00 and motored all the way with the auto-helm in charge.  The wind had gone down but the beautiful scenery on either side of Loch Ness was not seen at its best in the cold overcast  conditions.  We arrived at Fort Augustus at 18.00 and went ashore for a meal in the Loch Inn, the rain was now constant and back on board for 21.00.  By 22.00 went ashore again to the British Legion Club where there was live entertainment, the singer was good and there was a liveey atmosphere but most important it was warm. On board by midnight and very glad of a night ashore.

Fort Augustus to Laggan - Sunday 22nd May 2011 - Day 20

From our berth at the bottom of the locks you are allocated times for entering the staircase of locks and we began at 10.00, through the road swing bridge and into the first lock.

  There were six boats  together going through each lock, for this you have to leave the boat and take your ropes with you, and walk/pull the boat from one lock to the next.  There are five locks in all and we tied up at the top on a lay-by pontoon at 12.00, went back down to the village for breakfast and some shopping. From Fort Augustus it is onto Kytra Lock, then Cullochy Lock, followed by the Abercalder swing bridge and into Loch Oich, for this we had the lot, wind, rain, showers and sun.

By 16.00 through the Laggan Swing Bridge and into the very pretty Laggan Avenue.  Alongside pontoon above the Laggan Locks by 16.30 but there was no electricity supply.
Just along the bank was the converted Dutch barge 'Eagle Bar' where we had phoned up previously and booked a meal which was very nice and eaten in a very friendly atmsophere.
Back on board after getting very wet for a karaoke.