Thursday, 30 June 2011

Holyhead, Wales - Days 45,46,47,48

Holyhead - Monday 20th June 2011 - Day 45

Most of the day tidying the boat and in the evening ashore to the town a pleasant 15 minutes walk.  The town centre was very quiet and only found Maja's a Sri Lanken restaurant which was open, a meal of mushroom salad followed by pork was sufficient.  We strolled back to the nearest hotel to the marina called the Boathouse.  Here we met two German wind turbine engineers who were catching the ferry next day to Ireland.  There followed a very interesting conversation on wind energy and the interruption of Health & Safety law.  Mine host of the hotel was not too happy, as he did not get rid of us until midnight.

Holyhead - Tuesday 21st June 2011 - Day 46

This was Jack's leaving day. Walked with him to the station to board his train and after a few changes, he would arrive home in Newcastle.  It was grand having Jack on board, we talked about our school days, where the others may now be and if all goes to plan, he will return to the boat to do another one of the legs.
From the station walked to the new retail park, had a meal and shopped in Morrisons, then got the bus back into town and back on board for 16.00
The evening stroll into town and the tour of the pubs was not a success as none were to my liking, so back to the marina and the local sailing club for a nightcap with only me and the barmaid in the club.

Holyhead - Wednesday 22nd June 2011 - Day 47


Power cut again on the pontoons, this time the shore electricians are having a go and renewing one of the supply cables.  Finished off the washing and ironing.
Went to the station for 15.00 to meet my new crew member Bill (rehab) Edwards, who I know from sailing with and during maintenance periods on the Tallships.  Bill a very keen yachtsman had kindly brought along his portfolio of charts and sailing directions for the south coast.  A taxi to the boat and got him settled in.
At 18.00 went to the Boathouse Hotel for starters and as there racing on at the yacht club that evening went there for a very nice meal and stayed the rest of the night.  During the night the wind strength was increasing.

Holyhead - Thursday 23rd June 2011 - Day 48


Plans to sail at 07.00 were aborted due to the strength of wind and went  back to bed.
Three yachts had sailed that morning but were back in by lunch time.
My right foot was becoming very painful the onset of gout, Bill went ashore to obtain medication but the pharmacist would not be moved to supply.
Went to Boathouse for a meal and soft drinks and the yacht club for nightcaps.

Wednesday, 29 June 2011

Malahide, Eire to Holyhead, Wales - Day 44

Malahide to Holyhead - Sunday 19th June 2011 - Day 44

At 04.45 we left the pontoon and by 05.15 were out of the harbour and passing the safe water mark buoy.
With a steady wind from the west hoisted full jib only as we set off on our easterly course.

We kept the engine running for a further two hours, ticking over charging the batteries to power the auto-helm and chart plotter. There are frequent passenger/ro-ro ferries and high speed catamarn ferries on this run between Dublin/Dun Laoghaire and Holyhead/Liverpool.  The photo shows the Irish Ferries new ship Ulysses which was travelling at 20 knots.  Apart from keeping a good look out, the onboard AIS was picking them out on the chart plotter.  Telling me their name, identification numbers, speed, course, closest point of approach and the time when they would be closest.  They were passing on either side, most doing 20 knots while the fast cats doing 30 knots in the clear visibility there was no problem for them, a yacht screaming along at 4 knots.

At 11.30 we were losing speed as the wind began to drop, so out with the cruising chute.  The photo shows how it was rigged, may be different to what you sailors know.  Cruising chutes are normally just tied on at the front but I rigged two sheaves, single reeved to the tack and pulpit with line running back to the cockpit.  The line allows the tack of the chute to be any height and is easy to adjust to be horizonital with the clew. This trick I was taught while cruising in the Izelmeer, Holland and the rig is called a bloomer.  When you launch a chute you normally take off the genoa but this was flying very merrily behind it, the genoa was left up and we gained an extra 1 1/2 knots and ran like this for 2 1/2 hours.  Off the North Stack light house on Anglesey the chute was dropped at 15.00 and unfortunately the tide took us down into the overfalls and took an hour to find calmer waters.  At 16.45 we were passing the pier head lighthouse and into Holyhead harbour,on the pontoon berth by 17.15.  We were well pleased at making a very good passage across the Irish Sea in almost ideal conditions, fair wind, flatish seas and very good visibility, travelling 60 miles which took 12 1/2 hours from berth to berth.                                                                                                                                   
     

Malahide - Eire - Days 42,43



Malahide - Friday 16th June 2011 - Day 42

We awoke at 09.30 to lots of wind and rain so spent the day on the boat until the rain eventually stopped at 17.00.

Ashore at 18.00 and went to, as advised by the locals, Gibney's Pub.  We were not disappointed as this is the finest one I have been in all of Ireland.  It is an amazing establishment as it caters for every age.  The decor is of fine wooden carvings with rooms and alcoves branching off the main bar, very effecient and helpful young staff.  Meals are superb and if you like a tele in a public  bar, I have never seen so many screens in one place showing numerous sports and news channels.  For a change of scenery at 21.30 went to Fowler's Bar an old fashioned mostly men bar, then Duffy's bar and lounge, followed by Last Orders a more modern establishment with live music which got louder and louder, so it was out of there and returned to Gibneys.  Here the bar disco was in full swing, the place was packed with happy joyous people and it was not too difficult to join in.  Back on board we continued this theme by playing our collection of Irish music with night caps.

Malahide - Saturday 18th June 2011 - Day 43                                                                                     
                                                                                  
The morning was spent shopping for provisions and the afternoon devoted to being a tourist.

We strolled up past the railway station, the Dart train will take you to the centre of Dublin which is 10 miles away. Into the main park which is an expansive area,  well maintained and used by many who by their accents and appearance were the families of immigrant workers.  The attractions of the park are dominated by the castle and while there was being used as a background for a recently married couple, who were being pushed around by their eager photographer.  We went off looking for the miniature railway but were informed by the smartly uniformed park rangers it had been dismantled and stored by the local council who now had control of the park.  They related the fascinating family history of the place but like many others had to be sold to pay off death duties.                                                                                                                                         
Within the park there was a cricket match going on between Malahide and North County.  While in the pavilion, I mentioned to one of the elder gentlemen at the bar, the bowler at the top end was a bit quick.  'Oh, that's Paul' he replied. 'an Irish international', so with a pint of the black stuff, happily sat outside watching the game until they stopped for their tea interval.                         
By 18.00 we were back in Gibney's for dinner of bangers and mash; chilli con-carne.  We said goodbye to the staff for really looking after us, back on board by 21.00 for early start the next day.

Carlingford to Dublin - Day 41

Carlingford to Dublin - Thursday 16th June 2011 - Day 41

Prior to leaving and waiting for the tide called Howth marina on the northern outskirts of Dublin to book a berth for the next days and like all other previous bookings at marinas, it was granted.

 We left the pontoon at 11.30 and made our way down the Lough and by 12.30 were passing the, as shown, impressive Haulbowline light house.
The wind was coming from a southerly direction which was not to our liking with frequent heavy rain squalls.  We ran with 2 reefs in the main, the jib furled and engine running.  The dangers of running down this coast is the numerous lobster pots.  In other parts, they are well marked with brightly coloured buoys and the real ones have poles with flags on the top to give you a warning of their position.  Unfortunately, in these waters the pots are marked by empty plastic containers, akin to big milk bottles, so they were very difficult to pick out in any sea swell but they were all very good, as they kept missing us.

The conditions were hindering our progress south and we were not going to make Howth marina in the light available and not wanting to arrive in the hours of darkness called Malahide marina which is 5 miles further north of Howth.  There was no response but decided to go for it anyway.  Reeds and the cruising almanac warns of the danger of entering at the wrong time and with 1/2 tide reckoned we would just make the gate.  The safe water mark was very difficult to pick out and by 21.30 we were passing it with 2 meters of water below the keel, there is a very well buoyed channel taking you in pst the beach and sand- dunes while further in there are lots of moored boats just outside the channel.  We were alongside the visitor's pontoon by 22.15 and booked into the office.  At the same time, I called Howth marina and informed them of our safe arrival in Malahide.  A fry up on board was the order of the day and we went to bed absolutely knackered.  The wind and the rain increased during the night as the depression tracked to the west of Ireland.

Tuesday, 28 June 2011

Carlingford - Eire - Day 40




Carlingford - Wednesday 15th June 2011 - Day 40

Photo shows the entrance into the marina which is the one on my left.  We moved the yacht in the morning to another pontoon with a power supply and spent a lazy day in the sun trying to catch up with the communications but oncemore were beaten by the available reception.







In the evening went off for a tourist run and photoshoot of this very pretty town, quiet mid-week but very, very busy at weekends, when all around come to visit and enjoy the many bars and eating houses.

state of the Photo shows the drying harbour with the impressive ruin of King John's castle above.  We went to PJ's bar/restaurant for an evening meal, consisting of grilled oysters for starters, they were great, followed by a steak and Guiness pie, well and truly fed and watered.   To relax even more, went next door to Ma Baakers and were entertianed by the locals watching the horse racing on the tele and giving money to the barman who was taking the bets. Jack and I were picking our own horses but not for real, as we did not want to part with our money.  We strolled backed to the marina feeling very happy with the world.                               

Ardglass to Carlingford Lough, Eire - Day 39

Ardglass to Carlingford Lough - Tuesday 14th June 2011 - Day 39

For my last day in Northern Ireland, I went ashore to the Tide Water Cafe just outside the marina for the famous large Ulster Fry Breakfast and I was not disappointment, this certainly set me up for the rest of the day.  At Milligan's just around the corner filled up my fuel containers with red diesel at 76p/litre the cheapes so far on the trip.

 We left Ardglass at 11.30 and set full sail and an hour later were passing the St.John's Point Light House a 37 mtr structure painted with yellow and black horizontal stripes like a bee.  It stood out magnificently with the background of the Mourne Mountains.  This guards the entrance into Dundrum Bay inwhich is situated the namesake of my home town, Newcastle, which we passed 7 miles off-shore.  On the VHF radio, at 14.00 Dublin coastguard were giving out a Mayday relay for swimmers in difficulty 60 miles to the south of us.  Helicopter was despatched and within 1/2 hour the rescue was over.

At the same time, we were passing the coastal town of Annalong which from our vantage point looked very picturesque with the mountins behind.  We arrived at the safe water mark buoy at the entrance to Carlingford Lough a little early and had to wait for the tide to takes us in.  I tried to call the marina but was having no luck, so I told Jack, I will call the local pilot.  He was taken aback, as Mike Cunningham answered and said he would do all he could to help. I sail quite often with Mike, who is Chief Officer on the Tallship Stavros S. Niarchos.
By 17.00 the conditions were right and we made our approach into the Lough which is an enjoyable run in a very well marked channel, used of course for commercial shipping.  The very narrow entrance into the marina was the most challenging so far with a strong cross tide and we were safely tied up for 18.30 in Eire.  Mike who lives on the other side of the Lough arrived in his own moror boat at 21.00 and took us to the small drying out harbour of Carlingford.  First into Taffee's Bar then onto the Carlingford Arms and to my surprise were served by a Geordie barman (we get everywhere).  The night past very quickly it was grand to see Mike again in his own neck of the woods and we were made most welcome.  The motor boat ride back to the marina with searchlight picking our way past the moorings was another adventure, which perfectly ended the day.                     



Bangor to Ardglass - Day 38



Bangor to Ardglass - Monday 13th June 2011 - Day 38

We left Bangor at 07.00 and into Belfast Lough, the tides were not right so we did not attempt the passage through Donaghadee Sound.

The longer passage took us outside the Mew Island light house which we passed 3/4 mile offshore.  Set a course for the south and with a westerly wind this was Jack's favourite point of sailing on a beam reach, maintained a very good speed and the auto-helm easily handled the sea conditions.  Though the skies were overcast there was very good visibility as we passed the entrance to Strangford Lough.
With this fast passage by 16.30 we were tied up in the Pennick Cove marina, Ardglass.


After a siesta went ashore at 20.30 to the Harbour View Bar where to our surprise there was no Guiness and no food, so we headed off to the Chinese restaurant, we were the only two customers though the food was very good.  A wander up the hill brought us to Mannies Bar for a night cap which turned into a lock-in.

Bangor - Day 36,37

Bangor - Northern Ireland - Saturday 11th June 2011 - Day 36

The engine ignition switch had been giving me grief all trip and was removed, all cleaned and replaced with the locking ring on the outside which done the trick.  The furling gear also a trouble spot was washed out at the bottom and line shortened on the drum but still too tight to operate.
At 18.00 had a walk around the town visited Ava Bar then onto Jenny Watts which is a magic pub.  No music but the scenery kept changing as lots of people kept passing through.  The bar staff are wonderful, we sat at our table and they kept coming up taking our order and recharging the glasses (real waitress service).  Closed at 01.00 and strolling back the streets were full, as people were turfed out of other bars and clubs, there was a small police presence but no problems.

Bangor - Sunday 12th June 2011 - Day 37

For you sailors, attacked the furling gear again, removed the genoa and bottom section of the foil and found at the bottom end of the stay a section of the wire was birdcaged and catching the plastic sleeve. A file took away some of the plastic and grease applied to it and also to the top swivel bearing, everything replaced and the genoa now fully operates from within the cockpit.
Ashore by 14.00 and it is raining, went to Jenny Watts for lunch and there was live traditional jazz band playing, so we could not find a seat and went across the road to Wolesley Bar and had a good lunch there.  Found an excellent pound type shop in the shopping arcade and bought lots of good gear, provisons from Asda and back on board for 17.00.
Another night on the netbook and it stopped raining by 23.00.

Sunday, 26 June 2011

Lamlash to Bangor - Northern Ireland - Day 35


Lamlash to Bangor - Friday 10th June 2011 - Day 35

We slipped the mooring buoy at 07.30 and out of the bay passed the south channel lighthouse at 07.45.
The impressive Pladda lighthouse was passed an hour later and with one reef in the main and 3/4 jib we set course for Ireland.  We were not the only one on the route as the P&O fast ferry 'Express' which was picked on the AIS doing 30 knots, one mile astern of us.  I was a bit worried about this impressive ship, namely the wash from it, as they have a reputation in the press of toppling boats over.   The wash from this was very little in the sea conditions and the ferry was 10 miles ahead of us before the wash reached us, so no more worries.

By 11.30 we were passing Ailsa Craig one mile to the east.  This is a spectacular volcanic plug with sheer basalt columns forming massive cliffs.  This is home to an enormous gannet colony who nest from the grass line on top of the cliffs and all the way down.  Gannets with their white plummage and yellow cheeks are one of the most impressive of sea birds as they fall out of the sky from a great height, just tucking their wings in as they hit the water is a sight to behold, when you are close by seeing and hearing the splash but do not see where they come back up, so do not know if they have caught anything.

By 15.00 it was full main and jib as we picked up a steady wind enabling us to maintain a good course and speed to Bangor where we tied up at 20.30 on a visitor's pontoon.  We had travelled 60 miles in 13 hours.  Ashore to the nearest chip shop was not the best move and we were disappointed with the meal

but the two pints of Guiness in the nearest pub were a delight.  Back on board we both slept very well, happy to be out of Scotland and a new adventure in another land.

Inverkip to Lamlash - Day 34


Inverkip to Lamlash - Thursday 9th June - Day 34

I had returned to the yacht the previous afternoon with my new crew member, Jack Evans from Newcastle, who I first met when we went to junior school together 55 years earlier and had lost touch  until I joined the local yacht club where Jack was a member and yacht owner.
We provisioned and fueled up and left Inverkip marina at 12.30 and with sails set were making good progress down the Clyde when above Great Cumbrae were hit with gusts of force 6 as Jack sorted out how she reacted to the conditions.  The wind eased off as we passed the ferries moving between the island and the mainland above Largs.  Down the channel is the now almost redundant large ship unloading complex of Hunterstone terminal which is a monument to the shut down Ravenscraig steel plant.  There is a fine view up into Millport Bay as you pass Little Cumbrae island and the Island of Arran lies before you.

Lamlash is a bay situated between the Island of Arran and Holy Island.  I called the Arran yacht club for permission to use one of their visitor mooring buoys and duly picked up No.11 buoy in the bay at 18.30.
A lovely quiet spot and we stayed on board for a pie and beans supper.
As we swung round the buoy with the chaging of the tide during the night, at times the buoy bumping into the yacht, Jack reckoned it was a basking shark wanting to get in.

Rothesay to Inverkip - Day 32, 33

Rothesay to Inverkip - Friday 3rd June 2011 - Day 32


A yacht persons visit to Rothesay is not complete without taking advantage of the Victorian loo's next to the inner harbour.  The splendid interior of a bygone era and for a mere £1.50 which includes towel you can pamper yourself in this wonderful building.  The attendent will give you a full historyof the place and even the BBC will be there next month filming a documentary to be shown if I remember correctly in October.
I felt like a new pin on leaving and could take on the world (well nearly) there was a small matter of getting out of the inner harbour. 

While in the inner harbour took advantage of recalibrating the echo-sounder as you could see the bottom and with a tape measure set the sounder to the depth of water below the keel. At 13.00 we left Rothesay and headed for Loch Striven and with little wind for the first time hoisted the cruising chute to see how it performed.  I was very impressed and had a delightful run for an hour before dropping it and heading in the direction we wanted to go.  We motored across the Clyde occasionally seeing harbour porpoises while Craig got to grips with passing ferries and buoy hopping which he likes getting very close to (a bit to close for the skipper). 

I called up Inverkip marina and John Whitelegg whom I had met last year for the Tallships gathering in Hartlepool.  He had arranged for Selene to be berthed next to his own wonderful 46 feet motor cruiser Norvonna and took our lines on arrival.  We were invited on board Norvanna for gin and tonics by John and his crew Alan in luxury prior to going ashore to the Chartroom restaurant within the marina.  The meal was excellent and after saying farewell and thank you to our hosts who had to drive back home to Stirling, Craig and I wandered off to find the train station and finished off a wonderful day in the Inverkip Hotel.


Inverkip - Saturday 4th June 2011 - Day 33

In the morning began the task of sorting out the genoa furling gear.  The tension was taken up by fitting the additional inner stay and backed up by attaching the spinnaker halyard to the pulpit as we detached the genoa stay.  The turnbuckle and split pin were replaced, bolt and nut bought from the chandlery was fitted and secured, the extra length in the forestay being taken up by the backstay.

At 13.00 we left the keys for Selene in the marina office,  Craig and myself got a taxi to the station for our journey to Newcastle for a well earned rest at home.

Saturday, 25 June 2011

Tarbet to Rothesay - Day 31

Tarbet to Rothesay - Thursday 2nd June - Day 31

With wind assisting Craig took us off the pontoon through the harbour and out into Loch Fyne.  We motored across to Sgat Mor lighthouse then set full sail in very good weather conditions.  By the time we reached No.47 buoy at the entrance to the West Klye the wind was decreasing at No.46 buoy we encountered a major problem with the genoa furling gear as the bottom turnbuckle screwed itself out.
Becalmed off Auchenlochan so carried on motoring up the Kyles, in the meantime had been texting Andy Miller (whom I bought the boat from) and he mentioned as we passed Tignbruaich to look out for a Contessa 32 in the boatyard which is to be his new project, spotted it, the best of luck Andy with that one.

At 16.00 we were at the top of the Kyles of Bute where there are two channels at Burnt Island.  The photo shows the buoyage through the north channel while we took the slightly more challenging route on the south side.  Once through you have to look out for the large ferry crossing near Colintraive Point.  We motored down the pictersque East Kyle and entered the bay passing the Ardmaleish north cardinal buoy at 17.30.




Before entering Rothesay, you have to inform the harbour master, so he can open the pedestrian bridge to the ferry terminal to give you access to the inner harbour and we tied up at 18.00.
At last we had a beautiful sunny evening and celebrated our safe arrival with a can of lager in the cockpit.
I had been telling Craig about the steaks to be had in the Black Bull and what a disapointment when the barman announced they only served them now on Friday and Saturday.  Off to Zavaroni's for a haggis and fish supper and ended up in Taverna Bar for the nightcaps.

Crinan Canal to Tarbet - Day 30

Crinan Canal to East Loch Tarbet - Wednesday 1st June 2011 - Day 30

Set off from Cairnbann at 11.00 down the canal and passed Lochgilp head at 11.30 through two bridges and No.4 lock which were operated by the canal staff. Without our young helpers of yesterday, it was Craig who had to come to terms with the operation of No.3 and No.2 locks while I stayed on the boat for the driving bit.  Craig looks a fit chap but the running between locks and the winding of the sluice gates proved he was not in tip-top condition, he recovered while in the pontoon basin waiting for the Ardrishaig road swing bridge to open for the sea lock.
At 13.30 we passed the pier head and were back at sea in Loch Fyne and began sailing with the engine off.
At 14.30 Clyde Coastguard gave out a Mayday relay which was an upgrade from the Pan Pan message in the morning, concerning a missing boat from Craob Haven with two persons on board but we never heard of the outcome.

Tarbet

It was a pleasant run down to Tarbet under an overcast sky.  Craig was given the task of guiding the boat in and putting her on the pontoon, for his first time, he done a grand job.
Ashore to the Victoria for a meal of cullen skinin (fish broth), mussels, haddock, scampi, a proper scottish fish supper.  The Anchor has been refurbished and its upmarket decor was not for us, so we went next door to finish off the day.

Thursday, 23 June 2011

Oban to Crinan Canal - Day 29

Oban to Crinan Canal - Tuesday 31st May 2011 - Day 29

Call at 05.00 for a 06.00 start on leaving the marina to catch the favourable tide down Kerrera Sound.
By 07.00 passed the Sgeirean Dubha Lighthouse then Insh Island.

  For once the weather was fair with little wind and warmth as we passed the Bono Rock red lateral mark and the impossing Fladda Lighthouse as we entered the Sound of Luing.  The photo shows the Gulf of Corryvreckan one of the most feared stretches of water for yachtsmen in Scotland.  It runs between the islands of Scarba and Jura but today it looked very peaceful and we were happy.

Passed the narrows of the islands of Coirsea and Reisa an-t-struth before entering another race of the Dorus Moir between the island of Garba Reisa and Craignish Point on the mainland.

It was here we met VIC32 (Victualling Inshore Craft), the only working steam Clyde Puffer and an impressive sight.  We stood off the Crinan Canal sea lock at 11.00 until advised to enter with another yacht 'Stormer' skippered by Mike.  It was a lady lock -keeper this time in charge as we done the administration bit and received our license and key to transit the canal.  Mike had requested the assistance of two youngesters to operate the lock gates, so it was a pleasure following him through the canal.  A very impressive section is the view beside the River Add over the a flat plain out to the surrounding mountains.  The tree-lined banks of the canal are very pretty and seeing them in the sunshine made a big difference.

We passed through 5 bridges and 11 locks until we came to the mid-way point in the canal at Cairnbann after passing through No.5 lock we moored on the lay-by pontoon with a power supply at 15.00.  In the evening we walked across the canal to the Cairnbann Hotel where we had a very good meal and drinks in a very friendly atmosphere.                                                    




Oban - Days 24,25,26,27,28

Oban - Thursday 26th May - Day 24

Told to move the boat and in very gusty conditions which caused some damage and lay alongside with the prevailing wind on the bows and not blowing into the cockpit/cabin.
In the afternoon went in the hourly marina launch which takes 10 minutes to the town.  I went off to the Tartan Tavern and Lizz to the shops.
We met up in Aulay's Bar where I had previously been on my past visits to Oban, this is full of old photographs of ferries and fishing boats and has real character.  We were directed by the barman to the Waterfront Restaurant, unfortunately it turned out to be the poorest visited so far, firstly being cold, unappetising meal and expensive.  Went back along the front to the Cuan Mor, a friendly place and warm for night caps before returning on the 22.10 boat to the marina.

Oban - Friday 27th May 2011 -Day 25

This is Lizz's leaving day, we went to the station for her 12.45 train to Glasgow, then coach journey to airport for her onward flight to Southampton.
Saying goodbye at the station was difficult, as it was her determination to make me carry on, when I was all for giving it all up and going home from Lossiemouth.  Before coming on the trip, I had told her of the wonderful scenery within Scotland and not to worry too much about the weather.  The scenery does not change but the conditions she had to endure in seeing it all, at times it was horrendous.  I cannot thank her enough, for the smiles and laughter and once through the canal, I knew I had to carry on and her determination has rubbed off on me in wanting to complete the project.

The chandlery in Oban is well stocked and bought quite a few items before retiring to Aulay's Bar.
There is always a lot of visitors to the town and seeing them trying to find something to do and where to take the kids in the continous rain and drizzle, no wonder there are not many smiley faces, when the weather is dreek.

Oban - Saturday 28th May 2011 - Day 26

Spent the day in the marina doing the laundry, sorting out the cabins and after throwing out a lot of foodstuffs, decided this boat can operate with less grub on board.  It never stopped raining with too many heavy showers, this is awful.
Went ashore on the 18.00 boat for a walk around Tesco's and tried another pub Lorne Bar which has very good Belhaven's Best.  Into Aulay's bar for the big football match and sat next to a man in full Man. Utd. strip and cap (brave).  First time I have watched a game in the 3D format and I was very impressed and a good match, though the man dressed red left early after Barcelona scored their third goal.

Oban - Sunday 29th May 2011 - Day 27

It is still raining with a little more wind to push it along.
Sunday lunch in the Cuan Mor which was very nice and back on board by 15.15.
Siesta, then spent the evening getting more and more frustrasted trying to get to grips with this netbook and setting up this blog site, microsoft office and emails.

Oban - Monday 30th May 2011 - Day 28

The morning is dry after overnight rain, though the showers started when I was wanting to get to grips with some work on the deck.
Ashore on the 14.00 boat, shopping again in Chandler's, Tesco's.
Into the railway station to meet Craig Whitehouse, a Blyth yacht club member, arriving on the 15.30 train.  Very happy to have crew once again, so into Aulay's Bar and onto Cuan Mor for a meal.
Back on board for 18.30 and got Craig settled in  

Fort William to Oban - Day 23

Fort William to Oban - Wednesday 25th May 2011 - Day 23

This is a very unusual start to the day, there is no wind.

Lizz at the helm as we make our way to the locks with Ben Nevis in the background.  We entered the first lock at 08.45 and began the descent of the flight of 8 locks at 'Neptunes Staircase'.  With us in the locks was one other yacht from France who was returning from the Arctic and on his way back to the Mediterrean.  With no wind the famous Scottish midges arrived along with the swallows who were feeding off the midges as they skimmed across the lock surface.  By 10.00 we were at the bottom of the locks and awaiting the opening of the road and railway swing bridges.  Once through it was only a short distance to the Corpach sea lock and entered the second lock at 10.30.  Here you complete the paperwork for the canal transit and hand back the key.

With the backdrop of Ben Nevis with its snow on the top we left the canal at 11.00 past Fort William and into Loch Linnie.  We motored down the loch and passed through the overfalls at the narrows of the Corran Point lighthouse.  The wind was now beginning to show its hand and we started real sailing at 13.45 for the first time, though the engine was still running in neutral. By 15.15 the genoa had to be taken back in as the wind began increasing while we were south of Shuna Island.  Passed inside Lismore Island and the mainland which then opened out for the crossing of the Lynn of Lorn.  Now this is what we were used to, the wind and waves increased with buckets of rain as we tried to make headway south.  By 18.00 we were off the entrance to Oban harbour and made our way to the marina in Ardantrive Bay on the Isle of Kerrera opposite the town of Oban.  We went ashore for a warm welcoming meal and drink only to find the facilities were in a open air small marquee with open sides.  I could not believe who thought this would work in Scotland.  We had our meal and drink under a great big gas heater which did not help finishing off a day inwhich we started in no wind conditions and ended in a near gale.                                                                                  



                                                                                                                                                          



Wednesday, 22 June 2011

Laggan to Banavie Locks - Day 22

Laggan Locks to Banavie Locks - Tuesday 24th May 2011 - Day 22

Awoke to find the decks covered in volcanic ash is this turning into a biblical story.
The lock keeper gave the all clear and with a few hired motor cruisers made our way into the lock only to find when the water level was dropping one of the cruiser became hung up on her rubbing strake against the lock wall and began lising at a very embarrasing angle.  They were still hanging tightly onto the mooring lines with everyone telling them to let go as she fell back into the lock.  We went over and gave a short lesson in taking fenders out of their stowage cradles and using them (amateurs, bless them).

By 09.45 we were out of the lock and making our way down Loch Lochy in strong south westerly winds, gusting force8, of course, coming from the direction we were hoping to go.  The lots of rain accompaning the wind soon washed off the present of ash from Iceland.  After a couple of hours slog we arrived at Gairlochy lock, as mentioned, very few lock keepers are Scottish and this one is Spanish.  It was amazing being in this part of the world practicing my Spanish and receiving a response in that language.

After the lock you pass through the Moy swing bridge and a long passage follows in the canal alongside the tow path where many walkers were resuming their journeys and by 14.00 we were at the
top of the Banavie locks.  We were found a berth with power and water at hand and gratefully tied up.

We ventured ashore to look at the lock system of Neptune Staircase and at the bottom went into the Moorings Hotel for expensive drinks and sandwiches.  Discussions with the lock keepers and checking the weather it was decided to leave the next day and booked in for the first morning lock.

In the evening went to the station at the bottom of the locks to catch the train to Fort William, while on the platform began chatting with a young man who told us about the backdrop of Ben Nevis and the names of the peaks close by and being a young'un he had climbed them all.  The train is only one stop to Fort William with the station next to the supermarket where we did some shopping and had a walk round the town and ending up at the Ben Nevis pub. The seat in the restaurant gave us a fine view over the harbour, loch and surrounding hillsides.  The steak and lamb shank meals were excellent and the taxi ride back to the boat brought a fine close to the day.

Tuesday, 21 June 2011

The Storm - Day 21

Laggan Locks - Monday 23rd May 2011 - Day 21

Awoke at 06.00 by the yacht ranging against the river pontoon. With the long mooring ropes made extra springs and breast lines after pulling the bows hard against the pontoon and every fender on the port side.  The weather was very, very wet with lots and lots of wind.
By 10.00 the advise from the lock keeper was not to leave though he had let boats through at 08.00.  The message from the next lock down at Gairlochy was very bad and shortly afterwards all the canal locks stopped operating.
The noon weather forcast for sea area Malin was West to South West winds 7 to 9 increasing to violent storm 11, it is not very often you hear that one and not forgetting we were 30 miles from the sea. The walkers some of whom we had met along the canal doing the Great Glen walk were advised to stay in doors as the winds were bringing trees down.
By 13.00 Lizz went off to the Eagle barge while I stayed on board on watch, later ashore the power cables came down so no electric and the canal locks were completely shut down.  Lizz kept coming back now and again to see if all was satisfactory and in the evening the situation started to calm.
At 19.00 I went along to the barge which was in darkness operating by candle and torch light, I returned to the yacht and brought all of our available torches.
The Eagle barge is run by a lovely couple Paul and Janet, they carried on as best possible in very strange circumstances and I was amazed how they managed to serve drinks and cook meals to all who were taking shelter, they really appreciated their efforts.
At 21.00 the power came back on and we had our meals consisting of steak and ale, steak and stilton pies they were gorgeous.  One of the local walkers who was very reluctant to leave introduced me to Aberdue whiskey, so I was very happy when we left and if you are storm bound in the Caledonian Canal, it is advisable to be as near as possible to the Eagle Barge at Laggan Locks.

Monday, 20 June 2011

Caledonian Canal - Days 18,19,20

Caledonian Canal - Friday 20th May 2011 - Day 18

After calling the sea lock, the keeper advised the time for leaving the marina and we cast off at 11.45 and made our way into the river.  In time for the big black menacing cloud coming over the mountain, not only having to contend with the overfalls/rapids in the river above Kessock Bridge, the wind and rain slammed into the boat as we turned and made the approach into the lock.  We surfed inside and the lock-keeper said "well done" as we throw him our ropes, "thank god" said I in reply.
Clachnaharry sea lock is where you pay your money and receive your license and key to transit the canal and use the shore-side facilities.  Looking to the North we could see snow on top of the mountain, "that's fresh snow" said the lock-keeper, "lets hope the boat heater keeps going" said I.
We left the lock at 12.45 through a road bridge, another lock and into Seaport marina where we topped up with fuel and provisions.
14.00 awaited the opening of the Muirtown traffic bridge then into a staircase of 4 locks, of course, all of these are operated by British waterways staff, while you stay on your boat and handle the ropes.
15.00 alongside Caley marina and used the chandlery to buy numerous items most important being a new whistling kettle.
16.00 left the marina and through the Tomnahurich swing bridge at 16.20 and by 17.00 in Douchgarroch Lock.  After leaving the lock tied up for the night at the nearest lay-by pontoon.
With a pie and beans dinner on board, followed by gin and tonics, no ice, no lemon.

Loch Ness - Saturday 21st May - Day 19

10.00 left Dochgarroch and entered Loch Ness the wind as usual was blowing from the direction we wanted to go, on the nose force 4 to 5 which made loch surface very choppy with heavy rain showers and it was cold.  We had two reefs in the main and were tacking to maintain speed with the engine running and half way down the loch is a the little harbour of Drumnadrochit where Lizz maneouvered the boat alongside.
We attempted to walk to the attraction of Urquhart Castle but gave up and went by taxi, spent and hour and a half there doing a photo-shoot and the same taxi came back to the harbour.
We left at 15.00 and motored all the way with the auto-helm in charge.  The wind had gone down but the beautiful scenery on either side of Loch Ness was not seen at its best in the cold overcast  conditions.  We arrived at Fort Augustus at 18.00 and went ashore for a meal in the Loch Inn, the rain was now constant and back on board for 21.00.  By 22.00 went ashore again to the British Legion Club where there was live entertainment, the singer was good and there was a liveey atmosphere but most important it was warm. On board by midnight and very glad of a night ashore.

Fort Augustus to Laggan - Sunday 22nd May 2011 - Day 20

From our berth at the bottom of the locks you are allocated times for entering the staircase of locks and we began at 10.00, through the road swing bridge and into the first lock.

  There were six boats  together going through each lock, for this you have to leave the boat and take your ropes with you, and walk/pull the boat from one lock to the next.  There are five locks in all and we tied up at the top on a lay-by pontoon at 12.00, went back down to the village for breakfast and some shopping. From Fort Augustus it is onto Kytra Lock, then Cullochy Lock, followed by the Abercalder swing bridge and into Loch Oich, for this we had the lot, wind, rain, showers and sun.

By 16.00 through the Laggan Swing Bridge and into the very pretty Laggan Avenue.  Alongside pontoon above the Laggan Locks by 16.30 but there was no electricity supply.
Just along the bank was the converted Dutch barge 'Eagle Bar' where we had phoned up previously and booked a meal which was very nice and eaten in a very friendly atmsophere.
Back on board after getting very wet for a karaoke.

Wednesday, 15 June 2011

Lossiemouth to Inverness - Day 17

Lossiemouth - Thursday 19th May 2011 - Day 17

I had spent the past week every evening working out the tides for the Inverness Firth and now it was going to be put into practice.  The weather forcast was not very favourable but the decision was made to go and left the pontoon at 12.00

At sea hoisted the main only with 2 reefs and motor sailed.  The tide changed against us at 15.00 and the wind began to increase contary to the forcast.  Little progress was being made against the wind and
tide as we tacked across the Firth by 17.00 I called Findhorn for possible shelter without the boat alongside drying out which was possible.  Lizz being made of stronger stuff said no to finding shelter and wanted to carry on regardless, so we did.

From here it starts to become worse and spent an hour stemming the tide with ever increasing gusts and spray coming over the boat. To see past the sprayhood I had to sit on the cockpit coaming being more exposed the waves were hitting me as they came on board.  It was remarked it was like the making of the old time movies as they throw buckets of water at the actors to simulate getting wet, I was getting very wet.

By 18.30 we were passing the South Cardinal Mark off the Riff Bank, the wind was still increasing and the passage through Fort George and Chanonry Point was horrendous.  When into the Inveness Firth, the fuel tank was topped up as Lizz took over the helm and was better at steering than the skipper or popeye (auto-helm) as she took her under the Kessock bridge as the light was fading.  At the entrance to the marina were were escorted by two harbour porpoises and by 22.30 were safe on the pontoon.  I finished off the whiskey at the end of one hell of a day.

Sunday, 12 June 2011

Lossiemouth - Days 15,16

Lossiemouth - Tuesday 17th May 2011 - Day 15

09.00 Ashore for breakfast in the Harbour Lights then into the office for a chat with Harbour Master, the engine parts arrived at 11.45.  What a wonderful service considering they were ordered at 16.15 the day before from Poole in Dorset.
Walked to the Co-op on the other side of town and stopped at the Beach Bar for lunch.

While I fitted the new engine parts and replenised oils and ran successful trials, Lizz went off to do the shops.  Went to the 1629 restaurant at night for haddock and chips.

Lossiemouth - Wednesday 18th May 2011 - Day 16

09.00 Ashore for breakfast in the Harbour Lights, the Harbour Master gave me the weather for the forthcoming week which was not very promising though there was a small window possible the next day.

The local fisherman who I met everyday told me I had been in Lossiemouth that long he had been in touch with the council to put me on the housing list and I was in the top ten.

Jimmy the marine engineer had purchased a new battery charger for me and checked the running of the engine after another successful trial.

A tri-maran from Holyhead arrived with Malcolm on board doing a clockwise circum-navigation of the U.K. and passed on good information.

Lossiemouth - Day 14

Lossiemouth - Monday 16th June 2011 - Day14

07.45 Engine no start, John from motor cruiser lent me his boost start and found 2nd stage fuel filter very dirty and changed for new one, changed 1st stage filter and satisfactory.
08.45 Left pontoon and outside piers set 2 reefs on main and No.2 jib in South West wind force 4/5.
11.00 The auto-helm was unable to handle the heavy conditions and had been hand steering for an hour when the engine high temperature alarm sounded.  Stopped the engine then the fuel pump stop coil began smoking and burnt out.
Attempt to hold the yacht in position by backing the foresail; this did not work and the yacht was spinning like a top, so dropped the jib and aborted the trip to Inverness.
Began the run back to Lossiemouth and checked the engine water pump impeller and primed the system, engine started and arrived back on same pontoon at 13.00; very relieved.
The problems were due to the following:
1. Engine overheating, on port tack and heavily heeled over lost sea suction which is on the port side.
2. Stop coil burnt out, the bent engine ignition key jammed in stop position supplying power to coil.
3. Unable to hove to, the No.2 jib has a high cut on the foot and in these conditions was useless.
4. Auto-helm, in heavy conditions the unit tends to jump off the tiller pin.

The next crew member, Lizz  Richardson from the Tallships was due to join in Inverness and called her informing of the situation before her flight was due to leave Soughtampton.  She agreed to carry on.  Phoned Andy Miller to obtain Bukh engine spares department, spoke to their engineer Norman Griffers and ordered stop coil with bolts, ignition keys and fuel filter, for hopefully next day delivery.
Met local marine engineer Jimmy Watt who attepted to track down a stop coil and loaned me his battery charger as mine had just thrown its hand in.

21.00 Lizz arrived by taxi from Inverness and went to the Royal Naval Association to relate the day's events and I was all for packing it all in but things were to turn out differently.

Thursday, 9 June 2011

Lossiemouth - Days 11;12;13

Friday 13th May 2011 - Day 11

Purchased 16 ltrs of fuel from local garage at £1/litre, the cheapest price so far.
Harbour Master (Ian White) office to pay marina fees and use the wi-fi connection as very poor on the yacht and received weather forcasts.  Walked to Co-op supermarket and around town.  Washed and scrubbed yacht topsides and coachroof.  Meal on board pasty and beans.
In evening along to Beach Bar and watched Rugby League match then onto Royal Naval Association (all visiting yachtsmen are guests of the Harbour Master).  Upstairs they were holding the local area Ladies Darts Championship and was packed went to the bar to meet the locals.

Saturday 14th May 2011 - Day 12

Tidal calculations for the Inverness were all worked out and a distance from Lossiemouth of 30 miles.
The weather forcast was very poor and all of it coming from the direction I wanted to go and after checking the sea state over the harbour wall, sailing was aborted, so off to the Harbout Lights cafe for a full Scottish breakfast.

In afternoon went to the Royal Naval Association and watch the English Cup Final then onto the Beach Bar for a scampi meal before returning to the yacht.  The evening weather forcast showed no improvement and stayed aboard and for the first time out came the banjo for a practice.

Sunday 15th May 2011 - Day 13

Called Aberdeen Coast Guard for the up to date weather forcast still no improvement.  Chat with local fisherman from boat 'Storma' informed of having to punch the seas all the way South by 12.00 the wind was easing down but it was too late,as the tides would be missed in the Inverness Firth so sailing was oncemore aborted.

A motor cruiser 'Bloody Mary' arrived from Peterhead with John the skipper (from Jarrow on Tyneside) an ex-Royal Navy aircraft engineer who had brought his boat to Lossiemouth for a lift out and a weeks work to be done in the dockside shed.  He gave me a print out of the next week's weather which was not very encouraging. 

My portable battery charger had packed its hand in, so had to run the engine to charge up my batteries.  Spent the night on board with more banjo practice.

Tuesday, 7 June 2011

Whitehills to Lossiemouth - Days 9,10

Whitehills - Wednesday 11th May 2011 - Day 9

08.00 left Peterhead marina and by 08.15 through the piers and set sails, 2 reefs in main with preventer and No.2 jib.  The lighter winds still came from the South with a slight swell the visibility was very good.

I had been given lots of local information on how to pass Rattary Head with its unpredictable sea state as shallow patches extend far out to sea and where tidal currents meet.  By 10.00 I passed 4.6 miles miles off Rattary Head, the big ships passed inside my course while a large trawler slid close by as it worked the currents and laid it's nets.

12.15 passed 1 mile off  Frazerburgh Kinnard Lighthouse and now round the corner and following the Moray Firth coastline.  This became a very satisfying sail, past the headlands with villages either side in the bays clinging to the shore with a background of very green soft rolling hills.  The main shipping had disappeared so to the lobster pots as only a few small boats were to be seen.  This idyllic scene would be interrupted by heavy hailstone showers.

16.30 arrived at Whitehills with the Harbour Master Bertie Milne waiting on the end of the pier to guide me in and took my lines at the outer harbour pontoon.  Another 35 miles had been completed.

Ashore in both pubs 'Cutters' and 'Shieldfield' were not serving meals so went to the cafe and had a very nice fish supper.  Within the Harbour Master's building there is a visiting crew's amenities room which is very well appointed with intenet access and began trying to get to grips with my netbook.  Old photographs of Whitehills show it once as a thriving fishing port while Bertie told his tales of his many happy years as a fisherman.  It is now a very busy port for visiting yachtsmen on passage to and from the Caledonian Canal.

Lossiemouth - Thursday 12th May - Day 10

09.00 left Whitehills and set the same sail combination but as the wind veered from south to west continued with main alone and engine.  Heavy rain squalls were now affecting visibility passing 2 miles off Buckie piers at 13.00

For the next two hours within Spey Bay the heavy rain squalls and increasing wind gusts I began tacking across them to make any headway, luckily there was plenty of sea room.  I was very relieved when I entered Lossiemouth piers at low water and Selene went on the putty going into the west basin, she slide herself off with an increase in engine power.

Ashore in the 'Steamboat Inn' I was directed to the 1649 restaurant for a meal, soup was very good though the prawns cooked and presented in their shells were a bit of a challenge.

Monday, 6 June 2011

Stonehaven to Peterhead - Days 6,7,8

Stonehaven - Sunday 8th May 2011 - Day 6

With a large swell in the bay and 'Selene' still ranging alongside the quay, the Harbour Master Jim Brown advised not to sail and after calling Peterhead for their local weather forcast the sailing was aborted.
Stonehaven

Another vessel on the adjacent quay 'Montiverdi' a 20 ton motor cruiser from Hartlepool with her mooring lines had pulled out her stern samson post from the deck due to the violent motion while alongside.  A local fisherman seeing how 'Selene' was reacting to the harbour swell offered additional heavy round fenders which were very much appreciated.



Robin going ashore in the very wet conditions slipped as he entered the local cafe and aggravated a previous injury to his left ankle.  He was taken to the local hospital by the Harbour Master's son James where they advised X-ray at the Aberdeen hospital.  It was decided Robin could no longer continue the voyage and his gear was packed and James took him to the main hospital.  I am now single handed.

Stonehaven - Monday 9th May 2011 - Day 7

An early rise 05.30 to check the swell within the bay and after discussions with the Harbour Master and skipper of 'Montiverdi' it was decided to sail with the motor cruiser shadowing me so far up the coast.

Left at 07.00 and rigged 2 reefs in the main and hoisted the No.2 jib with a preventer on the boom to stop an unexpected gybe as we rolled our way north in the swell.  By 10.00 were 2.5 miles off Girdle Ness and commenced the passage across Aberdeen bay where 14 ships lay at anchor, each one was identified on the AIS which was very assuring.  By 13.00 were on the approach to Peterhead and 2 miles out called port control who gave instructions on how to enter the marina and advised to call back 5 minutes before passing through the main pier entrance which seemed a strange request for a yacht.  At 14.00 alongside the marina pontoon and I had completed my first 30 miles single handed voyage.

It was a 20 minute walk to the town centre with a very welcoming Weatherspoons for a good meal and beer.

Peterhead - Tuesday 10th May - Day 8

Decided to sort out a few problems while in Peterhead.  My netbook to communicate with everyone was not working so a friendly computer shop were asked to assist and eventually found the dongle was at fault and a new one purchased.  While now able to send/receive emails, the blog site which was supposed to be set up was not working.

The yacht engine start key had been bent and new ones were made but would not work when tested.  Andy Miller my back up and mentor in Blyth was contacted who would try to get new/used keys to me.

Opportunity was taken to use the near by caravan park laundry facilities.  Marina manager drove me to exchange gas bottle and fill up the spare fuel containers.  A satisfying day.

Wednesday, 1 June 2011

Dundee to Stonehaven - Day 4; Day 5

Dundee - 6th May 2011 - Day 4


After late wake up call phoned RTYC for the possibility of a boat ashore and informed we were on the wrong mooring buoy and had to move.  Spoke to one of the club members (who incidently was going to Blyth for East Coast week in July) who gave very good information on crossing the River Tay bar and the berthing at Tayport across the river.
At 13.00 left the mooring buoy and crossed to Tayport and moored alongside another yacht who gave excellent information on the port of Peterhead.
We were then directed to the quay wall by the stand-by marina manager for a night stay and to sit in the soft mud at low water.
Ashore to Cobbies bar then the Bell Rock tavern for a meal, this pub contains lots of historical photos of the port.

Stonehaven - 7th May - Day 5

To act upon the information given on the River Tay bar left Tayport at 04.30 and at 05.10 passed the south cardinal mark with 2 reefs in the main, motor-sailing and when out of the Tay we were very relieved. By 08.00 passing Arbroath and began finding our way around the numerous lobster pot  markers.  Trying to sail became impossible as the wind died and motored past Scurdie Ness and Tor Head point.  At 17.30 arrived at Stonehaven and tied up against the harbour wall in a heavy swell and were advised by the Harbour Master to run out long mooring lines.

Ashore for a beautiful meal in the Ship Inn but spent sleepless night on board ranging along the quay wall.